Pax Americana is the newest restaurant that you’ve never heard of in Houston—and it’s a gas! Named for the period in American history after 1946 when the West enjoyed relative peace (“Pax” meaning peace), the restaurant itself seeks to bring customers an upscale, slightly 40’s-inspired restaurant experience.
The whole restaurant feels like women with victory rolls ought to be saying things like “You’re a regular Ducky Shincracker!” and “Now we’re cookin’ with gas!” It has charm, elegance, and, frankly, as Thrillist puts it, it’s “sexy.” From the menus to the faux-passports, every little detail has been artfully planned. My waiter even took my jacket and scooted out my chair (and I just gazed stupidly at him as though he was going to steal my $20 H&M coat… but that’s a story for another time). It’s possible I was just lucky, but I’m pretty sure it’s the standard: service was attentive and warm the whole evening.
The drinks menu, dreamed up by the likes of Chris Fleischman of Roost and Lillo & Ella, and Shepherd Ross of Glass Wall and Brooklyn Athletic Club, makes little nods to the era and to Americana with cocktails like The Manhattan Project and Amber Waves. The Coconut Swizzle even comes in the most delightful Easter Island Tiki Cup, a trend that was in vogue during the time.
The food itself is imaginative and ever-changing based on local suppliers. The kitsch and lovingly implemented themes are nothing compared to the excellent standard of the cuisine—dishes like nine-spice brisket which won my heart and also my hand in marriage (if it will have me). The brisket stays on the menu longer because its popularity quickly became evident, but the dependence on local, fresh meat and produce ensures that each time you visit Pax Americana, your dining experience will be different—somewhat out of necessity!
I was recommended to try ordering food “family-style,” which ensured we could order quite a bit and try something from at least each section. Even considering I was still a little embarrassed about how possessive I got over my coat, I felt like a queen after every dish. Each was beautifully presented with bold, interesting flavors: Chef Adam Dorris truly gets to the bottom of “Modern American Fare.”
Pax Americana is the real deal when it comes to a local, playful, upscale dining experience. Go with friends and sample some of the delights of this grandstand! And just let them take your coat: they give it back.
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